Paste, Pomade, Clay...What's the difference?
The world of hair styling products can be a confusing one and sometimes very frustrating - especially when the products don't make our hair look they way we want it. Trust me - I've been in your shoes before! Whether you are brand new to styling your hair (and have never touched a hair product before), or whether you are a seasoned veteran who has tried a lot, there is always more to learn when it comes to hair products.
Often times its overwhelming trying to understand what each one does and trying to keep up with new products that hit the market. All of these different product names and types can make it quite difficult finding the right one (or two) styling products for your specific hair styling needs.
Over the course of my life I've asked a lot questions and tried a lot of products to fully understand what these products are and what they do. We've all been there before and asking the same types of questions...
What's the difference between a hair paste, pomade, or a clay?
How about gels, crèmes, or waxes?
And should I be using any mousse, heat protectant, oils, or hair spray?
Which one is right for my hair style and hair type?
Well I hope we can answer some of these questions for you here and to give you confidence that you are making the right decision about which hair product the first time.
What is POMADE?
Pomade is one of the most commonly used words to describe men’s hair styling products today. Now whether or not the the word 'pomade' is used correctly is a completely different story, in general, it seems to be the catch-all term to describe anything that’s not a gel or fiber.
Pomades are primarily designed to showcase your hair in a slick, neat manner while providing a high shine finish (ie pompadours, ducktails, slickbacks, or classic side parts). Basically, pomades work extremely well for hairstyles that are formed using a comb. Unlike gels, pomades do not dry out or leave your hair hard and crunchy allowing you to style your hair again and again throughout the day. Options for medium to high shine pomades are widely available.
Pomades can be broken down into two major categories:
- Oil-based (the more traditional version)
- Water-based (the more popular option)
Oil-based pomades are basically grease or petroleum, which makes it a very cheap option compared to water-based pomades. In the 1950s, the term “greaser” appeared to describe the greased-back hairstyles that use this type of product. Their ingredients are water insoluble which makes them practically impossible to wash out in the shower (buyer beware!).
While the petroleum and grease might give your hair long lasting shine and infinite mold ability, it does come at a cost. Practically anything you use to wash out oil-based pomades will also strip all of the natural oils out of your hair, potentially leaving it looking quite unhealthy. One final thing worth mentioning is that oil-based pomades also leave you more prone to acne, particularly along your forehead and on your scalp. If the shampoo and conditioner you use doesn't effectively wash your hair and properly remove all the oil and grease from the pomade, then your pores and hair follicles can be clogged resulting in unwanted buildup and undesirable acne.
Oil-based Pomade = More Potential for Acne
Water-based pomades on the other hand are a little more user-friendly. They are designed to allow you to achieve similar looks and holds to oil-based pomades, but they wash out easily with water. Most water-based pomades don't hold as firmly as the oil based type, but they maintain flexibility and can be restyled throughout the day.
Water-based Pomade = Easier to Wash Out
What is HAIR PASTE?
There is no consensus on the definition of “hair paste”, but there are obvious similarities between them all when you see and touch them. In general hair pastes are a bit thicker in consistency than pomades, and their consistency and texture can range from something like a thick toothpaste to tacky glue. A hair paste usually gives your hair a medium to very firm hold, and can leave your hair with a natural matte finish or add a touch of shine.
This makes hair pastes the most versatile men’s hair products out there and can be recommended for practically any hairstyle. Hair pastes are ideal for all hair lengths, types and styles…from short to long, fine to thick, messy to combed. And they are water-based, so washing them out is super easy. You really can’t go wrong with choosing a product in the hair paste family!
Now typically, thicker hair pastes require them to be warmed up before application. Rubbing thicker hair paste between your fingers or palms will soften the product allowing you evenly distribute it throughout your hair. Once the product is applied and your hair is styled, the product will begin to cool again and re-thicken, which helps give your hairstyle the hold it needs.
What is HAIR CLAY?
Clay hair products are a relatively new classification for men’s styling products and these products can range from very thick to very creamy consistency. The one thing in common with all clay hair products is the fact that they actually contain a clay ingredient in their formulations. The most commonly used clay is bentonite, which is completely natural and usually forms from weathering of volcanic ash. It’s incredibly fine and powdery making it almost “velvety” to the touch, and can swell as much as 6x when contacting water.
Clay (bentonite) makes your hair feel “fatter” by adding body, thickness and structure to the individual hair strands, and ultimately gives your hair structure and stability throughout the day. Hair clays are ideal for hairstyles that require tons of volume without having to worry about the styling product weighing down your hair.
There are other benefits of using hair clay products including:
- Clay has the tendency to draw dirt and impurities from the hair without drying the hair of its natural oils
- Clay has properties that are naturally healing and stimulating of the hair shaft and scalp (making it good for men with sensitive skin and scalp) and promotes hair growth
- It nourishes the hair and scalp because it’s rich in mineral and nutrients
- It conditioner and moisturizes the hair to control and maintain frizzy hair, particularly for men with curly or longer hair
What is HAIR WAX?
Hair waxes are often mis-classified because in some parts of the world there are no words for pomades, gels, or pastes…so these hair products automatically get lumped into generic “wax” category, which adds to the confusion. Waxes, in their truest forms, have two things in common: they do not harden over time and typically have a shiny finish.
So what hair products are waxes similar to? Waxes are most comparable to pomades, but typically have a lighter hold. They typically have the medium to high shine, but they lack in the overall hold. Like pomades, waxes are ideal for hairstyles that require a comb such as the pompadour, slickback uncuts, classic side parts , or ducktails.
What is TEXTURE POWDER& VOLUMIZING POWDER?
The power of powder! The vast majority of men don’t even know texture (or volumizing) powders exist, let alone know how to use them. Let me tell you what - if you want to create instant crazy volume and natural lightweight holdthen this is the recommended product for you. All powders typically contain the same basic ingredients. They all have a base of silica silylate. This is a rough particulate (unlike silicones which are smooth and shiny). The roughness sticks to your hair fibers and create the volume that you need by increasing friction between the hair fibers. In addition there are certain chemicals in the texture powder that absorbs moisture, which in turn rids your hair of excess oil. This also contributes to the extra boost in volume.
They’re generally recommended to apply to the roots of your hair. Using your fingers to mix the powder within your hair will give that much needed boost. If applied to just the ends of your hair, you can create a different effect; this typically creates great separation among the strands and piecey effect.
The negative that we’ve seen in using texture powders is that it doesn’t leave your hair soft like other products might. Your hair isn’t crunchy like a hair spray, but feels a bit stiff. In addition, application is a bit different than a typical hair product in a jar. Using too much and you may notice it at the roots of your hair. Apply it sparingly to ensure it blends well is the best way to use it.
What is HAIR CREAM & LOTION?
Hairstyling cream can essentially be called “hair lotion” because that’s exactly what it’s used for. They have a lotion-type consistency (versus the solid, pasty-type consistency of pomades and pastes) and they work great for moisturizing your hair in an effort to control and maintain frizzy hair. Hair creams offer a light, softer hold compared to any other hair styling products, and they are recommended primarily as a pre-styling product as they add substance, shine and separation to the hair. So if you’re looking to tame unruly hair and control the frizz on curly haired guys, then adding a crème to your styling regime would be recommended.
What is HAIR GEL?
Hair gel is the most known and most commonly used (and probably most hated) hair styling product for men. It would be a fairly safe bet to say that every guy has tried using hair gel at least once in their life.It’s typically the “starter” hair product for most guys who begin styling their hair in middle school or high school because it’s cheap and readily available at any local store….and unfortunately for a lot of us, we simply didn’t know any better!
Gel is great product if your intention is to have stiff, non-movable hair and if you don’t care if products damage your hair. It does work well with all hair lengths, thicknesses, and textures to mold, sculpt, and hold your hair in place. Gel tends to coat the hair strands and binds them together to lock them in place. Gels are water based styling products that have a concoction of harsh alcohols and holding chemicals. They typically leave your hair shiny and rock hard and don't have the flexibility to style your hair throughout the day.
The “extreme hold” of using gel in your hair does come as a cost:
- Flaking or residue when gelled hair is disturbed by running your fingers through your hair
- Hair damage and excessive drying due to the type of alcohols that are used to help the gel dry
- Corrosive chemicals strip all moisture from the hair and scalp resulting in itchy and flaky scalp and dandruff
- Hair becomes brittle and prone to breakage
- Hair becomes more frizzy, thereby making it unmanageable, dry, rough, limp and lusterless
- Promotes dead skin cell build up and excess sebum (natural hair oil) on the scalp which clogs the hair follicles and eventually causes hair to fall out and hair loss
Sounds great right (insert sarcasm here)? Hair loss, dry hair and scalp, flaking….we don’t think so either! That’s why Mister Pompadour has not and will not introduce a hair gel to our product line. We only want styling products that contain natural oils and proteins to promote healthy hair and scalp while naturally hold hairstyles in place.
So basically, if you’re using gel to style your hair you might as well shout to the world “Hey! I’m new at styling my hair”.
Mousse is probably the most recognizable hair product type there is based solely on its unique foamy texture. And for most guys, hair mousse is also one of those products they tend to shy away from. Possibly because mousse received a bad rap in the ‘80s for making hair feel crunchy and sticky. Or maybe it is the simple thought of product squirting out of a metal aerosol can that turns guys away. Either way, mousse is a hairstyling product that is designed to add body, light hold and shine to your mane.
One could argue that mousse is probably one of the most underutilized styling products for men, especially for men looking to achieve hairstyles that require volume. Applying mousse at the hair roots and blow drying from the roots outward is key to achieving massive volume. Using mousse with this method works well for all hair types – thick, fine, short, medium, long, curly, wavy and everything in between. Unlike hair gel, if you disturb the crunchy hair you won’t be left with flakes and residue.
So what makes mousse different? Mousse works by surrounding the hair strand with synthetic resins called polymers and assists the hair in holding its shape when it dries. Mousse will give hair a certain amount of lift at the root level, which makes it a perfect candidate at a pre-styler. Use mousse to get the initial volume – then use another product, like the Natural Beeswax Paste, to better define and shape the hairstyle. Some mousses are specifically formulated to thicken fine hair - making it a perfect choice for hair that is beginning to thin out or fine hair types in general.
For men with longer hair, a serum is used to control frizz and fly-aways by moisturizing the hair and providing a silky smoothness. Most guys will never use a serum due to the application, but can be used to add a quick shiny finish by applying a little bit after your hair is towel dried.
Natural Hair Oil
We wouldn’t necessary classify hair oils as a styling product, but rather a hair repairing product. Its recommended use is overnight or when styling your hair isn’t needed because hair oils will likely leave hair looking extremely greasy/oily and provide no hold whatsoever. Their main purpose it to hydrate the hair when the scalp is insufficiently producing enough sebum (natural hair oil) or when the sebum isn’t traveling from the root to the top to effectively protect the hair. Depending on the needs of your hair, you’ll need to choose the product right for the job:
- Argan Oil – Protects the hair and makes it feel smoother, softer, and less frizzy
- Coconut Oil – Improves overall hair health by penetrating deep in the hair shaft and strengthening weak spots
- Almond Oil – Contains a Vitamin A, B and E which improves hair health and adds shine and body
- Olive Oil – Revives dry hair (*use sparingly for fine hair types)